Last December, Shawn Raboutou made the FA of Big Z 8C+ in Tahoe with very complicated foot work. In total, he has now done a handfull 8C+ meaning he has one of the most impressive tick lists out there.

Ashima Shiraishi reports with a video on Insta that she has done Jade 8B+ in RMNP. "I poured my heart into this bloc over the span of a few years, and finally overcoming this one was a special moment." (c) Daniel Gajda from 2019.

During the same day the 20-year-old also did Riddles in the Park 8A+, Golden Rows of Flows 8A and Blood Money stand 7C+, the latter "the most desperate of sends."

Ashima has been one of the best female climbers since she did her first 8B at age 10. The next year she did her first 8c+. As a matter of a fact, based on her Top-5 routes and boulders being 13-years-old, she was Top-10 among the male. Then the next year, in 2016, she did the first female 8C. Since then, she has mainly focused on comps, making the finals in 8 out of 9 Lead WCs and Championships the following two years.

Christoph Hanke, who was #12 in the Chamonix World Cup in July, reports on Insta that he has repeated Alex Megos Pornographie 9a in Céüse. (c) Rainer Eder

How ćome you did not use a knee pad and what are your next plans?
I didn't use a kneepad because Alex did not use a kneepad in his first ascent. For myself I try to minimalise using kneepads when it was not used by the first ascent. But there is no judgement at all it's my own philosophy. I am going to Barcelona to set the first routes in the new gym of Chris Sharma, the "Sharma gava climbing gym". The next World Cup in Lead is in Kranji in about two weeks and then comes the World Championship in Moscow.

Marine Thevenet reports on Insta that she has done Antidote 8B in Rocklands. In total, the full time lawyer, has now done close to 70 boulders 8A to 8B. (c) Clément Lechaptois

"We spent three weeks in Rocklands in July which we had missed so much! It was our 4th trip there :) It was colder than our previous trip so we climbed a lot in the plain instead of the pass which allowed me to try new and différent boulders! I managed to climb Antidote in 4 sessions. The first move cost me a lot of trouble but once I did it I topped :)"

Did you do any other hard boulders?
I did Quintessential 8B, the best boulder of my trip; perfect rock, so pure! Two 8As, out of which, Light Saber quickly, and Stratégic balance (under the Finnish line) after several sessions. Really hard to find a beta for a short climber ;) I still have a lot to do next summer 😁

In the last World Cups prior to Tokyo 2020, very few of the Olympians participated. In the very last event in Briancon, only the gold medal winner Alberto Ginés López participated. In the coming Lead World Cup, taking place in Kranj 3-4/9, only five females and Jakob Schubert and Ginés López are registered to compete.

The registration to the World Championship in Russia starting 16/9 is not closed but it seems again few of the Olympians will participate. As an example, both Slovenia and the Czech Republic have listed their participants but Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra are missing.

IFSC reports that due to the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic, “The IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup in Xiamen from 15 to 17 October, and the IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup in Wujiang from 22 to 24 October, will no longer take place. Therefore, the World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia, will see the closing of the Lead season from 3 to 4 September, and the Boulder season will conclude in Seoul, South Korea, from 1 to 3 October.“

Moritz Welt has flashed his first 8c, Nordic flower in Flatanger. It took him 30+ minutes doing the 60m upside down climb and involved ten knee bars. (c) Franz Kaiser

"Just perfect. Planned to go for the flash before the trip, studied all the videos, watched some guys trying, gained endurance for 2 weeks and today finally executed it. Thx especially to Miro for the first pitch beta! One of the best routes I have seen!"

How did you like Flatanger?
The surrounding is totally impressive. Only rock and water. Some meadows and nice views. I think there's no need to say how impressive the cave is :) We also do some fishing here which is super fun.

Martina Demmel, who did her first 9a this spring, has done her fourth 8c+ in 2021, San Ku Kaï in Entraygues. (c) Malik Schirawski, who also did it. Amazingly, the 19-year-old, who was #15 in the Briancon World Cup, started to climb only in 2017. When it comes to onsight, she is #6 in the ranking game and #1 among the girls including one 8b+ and five 8b's.

"A double-send within half an hour of the most astethic line👑 in Entraygues with @malik.schirawski was definitely the best reward for all perseverance, doubts and still high expectations the past 2 weeks😋🤩🍻! Couldn't have wished for anybody else (including all the other guys trying it as well) to share this learning process with, to take a deeper focus into details, to trust in the small steps, to rethink about every beta and descision💭🧩 and mostly to always start climbing with a big smile because of the fun supportive atmosphare😊! " More details and pics on her Insta

What is next?
It's difficult for me to properly plan something because the engine of my car is pretty much dead and I don't know how far I can still drive...;) but apart from that I'm gonna enjoy the next few days around Briançon before going home next week after 2 months on the road now! Just in time to quickly switch back to comp mode for September😜🚀🙌🏼!

Janja Garnbret is the Greatest of All Time, by far, among all IFSC competition climbers. Her competition stats are beyond imagination. Out of 59 World Cups/World Championships in Lead and Boulder, the 22-year-old Slovenian has won 58%. Lead podiums: 19 - 9 - 5 = 33, out of 37 events, and Boulder podiums: 15 - 4 - 0 = 19, out of 22 events. Add to that 3 golds in Combined WCH/Olympics out of 3 events.


To fully understand her remarkable stats, we can compare her with Akiyo Noguchi, by many considered the second most successful female IFSC climber, who has made 74 podiums in Lead and Boulder. Out of 37 Lead and Boulder events, Janja has beaten Akiyo 33 times. We can also compare Janja with Adam Ondra, whose 63% of podiums are the most impressive stats among males. Janja has been Top-2 in 80% of her comps, out of which 58% golds. (c) Daniel Gajda

When it comes to youth comps, she won 13 golds in EYC out of 13 events and got 5 golds in Youth Worlds out of 6. She could have won at least three times as many, but since she was 16 she has almost only competed in the senior circuit. However, in the early World Cup years, she and her coaches deliberately chose not to do all events, as they did not want her to burn out traveling around the globe.

Outdoors she has only done one 9a but hopefully, she will focus more on rocks in the future. Based on the female 9a tick list, it would just be natural if she within a couple of years were to focus on rock climbing, and would do multiple 9b's and 9b+. If we take it further, speculating that it is in Boulder Janja has the biggest talent, then multiple 8C+ are possible. If so, she might become the most impressive female in the world in any sport and possibly a contender to be - Greatest of All Time, in all sports, as Climbing is unique when it comes to physical sports gender equality.

Andrea Chelleris, who did his first 9a last month, has onsighted his first two 8a’s. Amazingly, the 148 cm tall says there were no real difficult moves and they were not far apart. More pics at his Insta

” The first 8a is Herzklopfen and the second 8a is Herzklopfen/Zeitgeist in Landro, crag Franchi. The first 3 bolts are the same and easy (6c) with physical movements. The upper part is hard with technical movements. Both routes are bolted by Hannes Pfeifhofer.”