18 August 2021

Janja Garnbret - G.O.A.T. on the competition arena

Janja Garnbret is the Greatest of All Time, by far, among all IFSC competition climbers. Her competition stats are beyond imagination. Out of 59 World Cups/World Championships in Lead and Boulder, the 22-year-old Slovenian has won 58%. Lead podiums: 19 - 9 - 5 = 33, out of 37 events, and Boulder podiums: 15 - 4 - 0 = 19, out of 22 events. Add to that 3 golds in Combined WCH/Olympics out of 3 events.


To fully understand her remarkable stats, we can compare her with Akiyo Noguchi, by many considered the second most successful female IFSC climber, who has made 74 podiums in Lead and Boulder. Out of 37 Lead and Boulder events, Janja has beaten Akiyo 33 times. We can also compare Janja with Adam Ondra, whose 63% of podiums are the most impressive stats among males. Janja has been Top-2 in 80% of her comps, out of which 58% golds. (c) Daniel Gajda

When it comes to youth comps, she won 13 golds in EYC out of 13 events and got 5 golds in Youth Worlds out of 6. She could have won at least three times as many, but since she was 16 she has almost only competed in the senior circuit. However, in the early World Cup years, she and her coaches deliberately chose not to do all events, as they did not want her to burn out traveling around the globe.

Outdoors she has only done one 9a but hopefully, she will focus more on rocks in the future. Based on the female 9a tick list, it would just be natural if she within a couple of years were to focus on rock climbing, and would do multiple 9b's and 9b+. If we take it further, speculating that it is in Boulder Janja has the biggest talent, then multiple 8C+ are possible. If so, she might become the most impressive female in the world in any sport and possibly a contender to be - Greatest of All Time, in all sports, as Climbing is unique when it comes to physical sports gender equality.
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