Alba Gรณmez ticks La Gioconda (8c)
Alba Gรณmez Calatayud, who started climbing four years ago at age 21, has sent La Gioconda (8c).

Can you tell us more about the ascent and what is next?
I started trying it last week to get used to the style in Rodellar and the steep roofs, which is not the type of climbing Iโ€™m most used to. I struggled quite a bit with the first boulder, and I also fell three times near the top because of nerves and changing my beta at the last moment.

With the whole summer ahead, itโ€™s time to keep fighting for it. Letโ€™s see if the second pitch [9a] goes too.

Maรซl Musson and ร˜rjan Vaage send Ride of the Valkyries (9a)
Maรซl Musson, who did his first 9a+ this spring, and ร˜rjan Vaage have repeated Ride of the Valkyries (9a) in Flatanger. It is actually a mixed route where you need two ropes, put up by Leo Bรถe last year, since you need three cams in the 10 meter link up. Since several years it is forbidden to put up more bolts in the enormous cave. Vaage comments.

โ€This went down surprisingly fast. It felt like the Valkyrie boulder would be impossible with that much climbing into it, but today it felt as good as in iso! Super fun to climb the Valkyrie from the ground! Hard for me to say anything about the grade, never having done anything harder than low end 8c+, but it feels like a good step up from those routes. I used too big blue cams, one purple cam, and some nuts for the trad section. Pre placed.

Later Musson also did the second ascent of Adam Ondraโ€™s Art of Flight (8c+) and here is his story behind the ascents.
โ€The goal of this trip to Flatanger was to climb the first part of Change,[Change P1 (9a+)], with the idea of eventually starting to try the second part in the coming years. Last year I was already very close to doing P1, but during my final attempt I had an accident in Change. Since the route is basically at ground level, I fell on my back while clipping the fourth quickdraw.

This year I felt really good on all the hard climbing, but whenever I had to put in real attempts, I would tense up as soon as I had to clip a draw. I was going into the route with fear, and it quickly became unpleasant and not very motivating. I soon felt like trying something else. Ride of the Valkyrie was perfect for a quick project.

It consists of climbing The Valkyrie, a classic 8c in the cave โ€” with the particularity of starting directly in the middle of a roof, so you have to ascend a static rope to reach the beginning โ€” starting from Nordic Flower 8b+ then linking the two parts through a crack that you have to protect with cams. This crack section isnโ€™t really hard, but the last move is a small dyno thatโ€™s pretty scary because itโ€™s quite runout.

The real difficulty of the route is that The Valkyrie is an intense 8c, with a first crux around 7C/+ bloc, followed by several 7A+/B bloc sections. When I was climbing just the 8c, I didnโ€™t need to be particularly precise or clean: if I was fresh, I could simply pull a bit harder and everything worked out. But adding 45 meters of 8b+/c to get there meant I couldnโ€™t afford to climb those sections โ€œhoweverโ€. I had to be exact, efficient, and not waste anything.

Even though I didnโ€™t spend a huge amount of time on the route, the process felt quite long because it was frustrating. I kept falling on the same move, feeling completely fresh, with the impression that I was just waiting for the attempt where my fingers and feet would land perfectly on the holds. Usually I like long routes because you feel real progress throughout the process. In Ride, I felt like I could have done it on my first tryโ€ฆ or not done it at all before the end of the trip.

During the last days of the trip, I managed to climb Art of Flight, proposed at 8c+/9a by Adam Ondra in 2013 but never repeated. It took me two tries; with kneepads, 8c+ feels right. This variation is really cool and deserve to be climb. I think it could become a classic๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿปโ€

Top 100 Ascents Female Ranking Game
Eva Hammelmรผller has during the last twelve months onsighted up to 8a, flashed up to 8b and repointed up to 9a+.
Top 100 Ascents Ranking Game
Lorenzo Bogliacino is ahead in the Top 100 ascents, the last twelve months, ranking game. The 29-year-oldโ€™s score is based on 13 onsights 8a to 8b and 87 redpoโ€ฆ
Stefano Ghisolfi FAโ€™s P.I.G. (8C)
Stefano Ghisolfi, who in 2026 previously has done five 8Cโ€™s and one 9b, has done the first ascent of P.I.G. (8C) in Gottardo / Gotthardpass. (c) Jorge Diaz-Rullo

Can you tell us more about your first ascent?
I started trying Quiet Storm which is an 8B+ already established from Francesco Berardino, then I climbed another 8A on the left of it. It seemed logical to connect the 2, starting from the left, connecting to the start of the 8B+ and also addind another 8A called Rosa Maialino on the right, but with a good kneebar rest before. It is a long traverse, so fit my style well, and very fun.

What does the name stand for?
The name comes from the last section, which is called Rosa Maialino (8A) which means pink pig, and so the project was named project Pig at the beginning, and then P.I.G.

Laura Rogora onsights 8c+ and 8c and redpoints two 9a+
Laura Rogora has onsighted Cosi Fan Tutte (8c+) and La reina de la Piscineta (8c) and sent Patanics (9a+), as well as, No pain no gain (9a+) in Rodellar. (c) Marco Marotta

The 25-year-old Italian, who is on a break from the competition circuit, extends her lead in the ranking game, well ahead of all men. When it comes to onsights, only Adam Ondra and Alex Megos have more impressive all-time tick lists. When it comes to the last 12 months, she is totally superior, with twelve onsights of 8b+ and beyond.

Can you tell us more about the trip and the redpoints?
Rodellar is amazing, both the climbing and the atmosphere, I really enjoyed climbing there and knowing new people.

I got quite close on No Pain No Gain on the second go but I tried a harder beta on the last boulder. On the third go, I was a bit more tired but I made it to the top.

The day after I did No Pain No Gain, I checked the moves of Patanics. On the second attempt, I got close, but I didn't remember all the betas and spent too much energy before the crux. The next day, I checked all the moves again, and everything went smoothly on the next try.

How was the onsights and the route reading?
So and so, in the first crux of Cosi Fan Tutte, I didnโ€™t choose the best beta so I had to give everything. The route reading was not easy from the ground.

Yesterday I came back to Piscineta and climbed La Reina de la Piscineta which was a really amazing route in quite control.

Belรฉn Villalรณn sends first 8c at age 37
Belรฉn Villalรณn, with four 8b+โ€™ under her belt, has completed La gioconda (8c) in Rodellar. โ€ It came together in a very unexpected way. It was my first time doing the move from the third bolt, and I had only managed the upper section after taking a fall before. Everything just clicked: I got through the lower part as if it were nothing, even though I did the "easy" section feeling really nervous, and then I sent the crux with a foot cut included. It feels so good to send it with those sensationsโ€”my heart is full! ๐Ÿ˜ Onward!!โ€ (c) Ori Breluru

Can you tell us more about sending your first 8c?
I started trying it a month ago and it fits a lot with my climbing style. Itโ€™s on a steep roof and requires a lot of knee technique and body tension. My best friend Marta Palou encouraged me to try it and helped me with all sorts of methods because figuring out these routes is a real puzzle. The route consists of a hard move (for me) on the third bolt, followed by an easier section of climbing until you reach a great knee rest halfway up. From there comes the crux of the route, which is about 15 moves of power endurance of similar intensity until you reach the anchor.

I want to thank everyone who encouraged me that day, especially Ori and Marta for supporting me throughout this whole process.

What is your climbing background?
Iโ€™m from Chile, I started climbing there in 2009, and Iโ€™ve been living and climbing in Spain since 2018. Iโ€™ve been working in Rodellar since 2019, and this is where I spend most of my time climbing. Iโ€™m so happy to have climbed my first 8c at this crag that I love so much and that has such great routes everywhere.

What is next?
Now Iโ€™d like to try Da Vinci Extension (8c) at El Museo and maybe go to Piscineta, where I have so much to do. Thereโ€™s still plenty of time left in Rodellar!

Michaela Kiersch flashes Mind Stream (8A+)
Michaela Kiersch has during a 27 degrees afternoon in Smugglers' Notch flashed Mind Stream (8A+) and sent The Impossible Sit (8A) as well as May it Be SDS (8A).

How did you prepare for the flash?
Mindstream is basically 3 moves so it was not hard to know the beta and give a good flash attempt.

Are you going back to live in Innsbruck?
Letโ€™s see. Back in the US for July and August!

Are you full time professional climber?
Full time rock climber! I quit my job in October before moving to Europe. Iโ€™m not back long enough to get another.

Christopher Cosser does Show Your Teeth (9a)
Christopher Cosser, who was 16th in the Tokyo Olympics, has done Show Your Teeth (9a) in Wolf Point. The 25-yesr-old South African has previously sent two 9aโ€™s and one 9a+.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Itโ€™s been a great couple weekends climbing up at Wolf Point! One of the first routes I did was a line called Sheep Eye (8c), notoriously spicy, and then accidentally found myself on the white panel of Show Your Teeth, only to discover it is one of the best lines at the Point. Psyched to get it done in two days of effort. Major props to Bj Tilden for the vision up here.

What are your summer plans?
I have my eyes set on a big project (Wind Up Bird (9b)) for the fall season, so itโ€™s a training summer for me.

Enrique Beltrรกn Blasco ticks El Picacho 9a+ (b)
Enrique Beltrรกn Blasco has completed El Picacho (9a+) in Rodellar. To avoid the heat wave, the Spaniard did wake up 3:30 and arrived to the crag one hour later with his friends Lizer and Samuel. Jonathan Flor did the FA in 2021 and suggested 9b. โ€I think the route didnโ€™t have enough hard boulders to be a solid 9b so I suggest 9a+.โ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
This is the last project from Dani Andrada in Ali baba cave. Itโ€™s a hard boulder traverse (in my opinion because it has 22 moves) around 8c route and you go directly to Ali Hulk Extension Total (9a+).

What is your next plan?
My main goal this season is to be in shape for Perfecto Mundo (9b+) and I think this route is a good approach.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo Enjoys the Bouldering Progress Experience
Jorge Diaz-Rullo, who climbed Cafรฉ Colombia (9c) earlier this spring, has spent nearly a month on a bouldering trip in the high mountains of Ticino. During the trip, the Spaniard ticked more than 20 problems graded 8A and harder, including Adularia (8C), and even flashed Voz suave del mar (8B).

โ€After getting up at 5 am to try Hazel Grace and realising I couldnโ€™t hold onto the holds because of the heat, I ended up on this wall. Somehow, I channelled that frustration, which helped me tackle this attempt with determination and without any pressure. It was more about endurance than strength, but still stoked to have achieved what might be my toughest flash ever.โ€

What made you go for this boulder trip and did it meet your expectations?
After finally finishing my long-term project, Cafรฉ Colombia, I went through a lot of different emotions. In a way, I felt a bit lost, like I had no clear direction or goal for the first time in a long while. I know itโ€™s just a phase and that Iโ€™ll soon be fully motivated again, but in the meantime I wanted to take a step back from my usual routine, travel, discover new places, and spend time climbing with friends. It felt like the perfect excuse to get back into bouldering. I didnโ€™t come here with any expectations or specific goals. I just wanted to enjoy climbing whatever inspired me. Although, for me, taking it easy still means climbing as much as possible! I wasnโ€™t in my best shape, and the conditions werenโ€™t always ideal, but bouldering definitely gave me a reality check, itโ€™s so hard!

More importantly, Iโ€™ve really enjoyed being here. The boulders are incredible, and Iโ€™ve met so many amazing climbers over the past few days. Being surrounded by such strong and passionate people has been really inspiring and has motivated me even more.

What was the most memorable climbs and what made it special?
Iโ€™ve climbed quite a lot during this trip, around twenty problems from 8A up to 8C, including a few flash up to an 8B. But honestly, the most memorable moments werenโ€™t any particular sends. They were the sessions where I felt I learned something new. Thatโ€™s what makes this trip special for me. Being here is about the experience, and I know I still have a lot to learn when it comes to bouldering. Those moments of progress are what Iโ€™ll remember the most.

What are your next summer plans?
In a few days Iโ€™ll be back to training, this time with clear goals for the autumn season. Iโ€™m excited to start a new chapter in my climbing career and focus on the projects ahead.

Gianluca Vighetti climbs The famous gem (9a)
Gianluca Vighetti, who last year sent two 9a+โ€™ at age 16, has done The famous gem (9a) in La Saume. Last year the Italian won the Euro youth cup overall. (c) Nicolรฒ Vece

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I wanted to spend a weekend climbing on rock after the end of the Italian competitions, but I still wanted to try a "comp-style" route, or at least something that could help me train a lot. The Famous Gem was perfect for my goal: a bouldery, crimpy, and overhanging line without many kneebars. On the first day, I never managed to get past the first crux, which is shared with the 8c section, and I started doubting myself and my fitness. The next day, I was having the exact same issue, but once I climbed past the crux, everything went perfectly, and I sent this beautiful line.

What are your summer plans?
My summer plan is to focus on the international competions, the European youth cups, European senior cups and the World youth championship in Arco. I'm also really excited for the rock season in Autumn! I have some really cool lines in my mind.

How come you have not done any IFSC comps in 2026?
Unfortunately I had a shoulder injury that kept me off the wall for some time at the beginning of the season and I wasn't able to compete in the first wc selection and in the other one I wasn't fully recovered. But it isn't a problem, next year I'm going to give my best for sure.

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