Shauna Coxsey reports on Instagram that she has repeated Francesco Bernardino’s recent Quiet Storm (8B+) in Gottardo. (c) Adam Cooledge

”It sure felt nice to try hard and get to the top of a boulder after lots of time spent mostly slipping and sliding around on my project. This boulder has some of the most impressively terrible holds I’ve ever pulled on! I was pleased to get it done fast and not split a tip!”

The 33-year-old, with five previous 8B+’ to her name, has won ten World Cups. Her big project for the trip is Hazel Grace Sit (8C) but the heatwave in combination with a muscle tear in her forearm made her opt for another hard boulder.

Alex Ventajas, with over 20 routes 9a and beyond to his name, has completed Générations Futures (9a) in Céüse.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and what went into completing it?
I decided to try this route because I wanted to do something different, not just for the grade but because it inspires me. When I saw the videos of Hugo and Gabri climbing “Générations Futures” I immediately knew this route was what I was looking for. I think climbing it it’s a real process, starting from the approach, the logistic, the meters you’ve to climb to reach the start. And then there is this perfect route: powerful, technical, with a great variety of holds and rock almost untouched. What I liked the most is that you’re so high that you feel in another dimension, you and the wall, with just silence around you.

I just had one week of holidays so I didn’t know if it would be enough to send it. The first day I just did one single try to put the correct gear to reduce rope drug as much as possible, and from the second day I started to try the moves seriously and did some links. I managed to do the moves quickly, but climbing from the ground I realize the route needed lots of endurance and good conditions to secure one tricky boulder on small holds and some bad two finger pockets. Anyway, the route let you fight, so every day I had better feeling climbing and I kept my motivation high!

The day of the send I did a very good first try, falling at the end of the last boulder because my foot slipped! Failing feeling so close put a little pressure on me and the second try wasn’t that good. At the end of the day a storm was coming, the wind started to blow and I decided to give a route a third try! From the very first moves, I felt completely in the flow. The opening 9a section and the boulder cruxes went down smoothly. Then the pump kicked in, and fighting through the next holds till the last easy part felt absolutely epic. I truly think climbing “Génération Futures” has been one of the most emotional moments of my climbing journey!

Leo Bøe, with 18 routes 9a and beyond under his harness, has done the first ascent of Verdens Ende (9a+) in Flatanger. The 130-meter route begins with Brunhilde low start (9a) before continuing for another 70 meters on traditional gear, as additional bolts are prohibited. Remarkably, the 26-year-old completed the climb using an 80-meter rope, forcing him to pull up the rope three times to minimize rope drag. The ascent took more than an hour to complete. (c) Clemens Popp

Can you tell us more about the first ascent and what went into completing it?
I was looking for the most obvious and straight line through the whole roof that also could be secured with gear at the same time. After climbing Brunhilde and looking up I thought it could be exactly what I was looking for, but would it go? How hard would it be? And with the bolting ban I had the added challenge of finding a path that could be secured through the whole roof.

One day I ventured up from Brunhilde anchor and it took me two days to get out to the lip of the cave. It was hard and intimidating work, with physical climbing between gear placements, but I soon had a line that would go pretty much straight through the whole cave and to the top of the mountain on trad gear.

I had to borrow trad gear from my friend Elliot Ashe and even order more to have enough to secure the whole 70m section without bolts. There is a dispute between land owners and therefore we are not allowed to bolt any new routes or even rebolt. It’s been that way for more than 10 years. I knew that if I wanted to create new lines in the cave this would have to be the way. The bolting ban turned into an interesting challenge and I could still attempt to climb the whole roof whilst respecting it.

Before giving attempts I had to solve the rope drag puzzle which often occurs on these long lines. I figured I needed 3 rope changes in total. In the best resting positions I would clip a long quickdraw into my belay loop so that my belayer could disconnect and me pull the 80m rope to the ground with my free hand. In case I slipped while resting the quickdraw would catch me. When the rope was pulled to the floor, my belayer could move over to that spot and belay from there. It would act as a «reset» for the rope drag without ever wheighing any gear. Now I could attempt the 130m single pitch.

After working the route alot and getting the right links I started working the bouldery start, which now was hard with the lack of power from all the endurance climbing. It took some days before I passed it, but when I did I pushed for the top in a very good tempo. I knew that if I wanted to send I couldn’t stop forever in each rest. I needed to be efficient and not waste time or I would end up very thirsty.

After passing the bottom for the first time I climbed the whole Brunhilde Low and got into the crimpy 7C boulder that comes shortly after. To my surprise I fell on the last move, but with great conditions. I knew that it would go and on my next day I climbed even better. I passed the redpoint crux and pushed all the way through the roof and onto the lip where I did the final little victory bounce to a jug. It felt awesome, but I was nervous for the top which I hadn’t climbed before.

Something like 35m of vertical and slab and my worst scenario was breaking a hold and waste the attempt. Luckily it felt in control and around 6b and I was so relieved to reach the summit.

How much gear did you use and how did you clean it?
I’ve left the gear up there in case someone wishes to try the route! So I only cleaned the upper 45 meters of vertical climbing. To clean the route I will first lead it to the lip and then downclimb as I pick down the gear. And where it gets too hard then just jump down after taking a piece out

What is next?
This got me excited to start bouldering again and take a break from long routes, but I also had a look to both my sides in the roof and see more king lines to be explored. I will check them out, that is for sure and they might be even cooler!!

My goal is to develop new routes, and I don’t really have any specific route in mind other than maybe Move 9b/+, which is just so cool. It’s a route I really wish to climb one day. Right now I’m in Lofoten trying all sorts of boulders. Both established and untouched.

James Pearson seems to be reaching a new peak at age 40, sending The Finnish Line (8C) and Legacy (9a) in Rocklands. Interestingly, the 40-year-old, who has one of the most impressive trad tick lists in the world, says he has almost stopped training and climbs outdoors just when he feels like it. Here is his story about sending the 9a route as a highball boulder.

”First, a bit of history. Dave Graham originally spotted this line — a ten-metre wall of immaculate streaked black and gold Rocklands sandstone — pretty early in the area's development. His instinct was to climb it as a highball: no rope, just pads and friends. For one reason or another he never got around to it, and some years later the line was bolted by ZA local Sean Maasch and offered to Fred Nicole, who began projecting it every season. After five years or so Fred was getting very close — he'd even fallen once after the crux — but had been hindered by injury. At the time the route was considered a “closed project", a practice fairly normal in certain circles back in the day, though much less common today. Then in 2019, Giuliano Cameroni asked Fred's permission to try it, and made the first ascent (with a rope) after three days of work. Fred followed just a few days later, and Giuliano insisted they share the credit, naming the route Legacy — Africa's first 9a. Since then Paul Robinson and Paige Claassen have also repeated it, also on a rope, but interestingly both noting that the line felt more like a boulder problem than a route. Paige's 2023 write-up ended with something like: "I can only imagine someone will boulder this someday."

I came to Rocklands this trip with a head full of highball ideas, and after sending The Finnish Line (8C) early on, started wondering what might be next. I spoke to Keenan Takahashi, who was working some other highball projects nearby, and after hearing what he had to say about Legacy I went to take a look for myself. Standing below the wall for the first time, my first thought was: it's big, but it totally goes.

Before I go further, I want to be clear: the way Fred, Giuliano, Paul and Paige climbed this isn't just "valid" — it's clearly the more sensible approach, given the height, the landing, and the fragile nature of the holds up high. Doing it without a rope meant a serious logistical mission: hiking in a mountain of pads, rounding up friends willing to stand beneath a fairly consequential fall, and committing to all of that in a place where getting injured would be a very bad idea. But Dave's original vision for the line felt like unfinished business, and it matched something in how I like to climb. Climbing doesn't have one correct format — it's always a mix of local ethics and personal preference.

The opening four moves are definitely the crux: small, slick holds with intense, snatchy moves right off the deck. I worked those out on the first day, then checked the upper wall on a static line. The moves above are more straightforward in comparison, but surprisingly sustained on sharp, fragile crimps — with the hardest coming right at the top. I had to find a compromise between efficiency and minimising any outward force on the holds to avoid snapping anything. The last move is the trickiest in this regard. The easiest way is a big drop-knee off the right-hand side-pull, allowing a static move to the final jug — very controlled, but if the hold went you'd fly sideways off the wall, well clear of the pads. I chose to climb it front-on instead, feet low, going for the top jug with the other hand. Slightly harder, but a fall from there would at least be predictable — hopefully feet first into the upper nest of pads.

On day two I went back up on my own and tried the upper wall above some pads, just to get a feel for being up there. I started climbing and jumping off, taking progressively bigger falls, letting the exposure become normal. By the end of the session I felt comfortable enough to know that if I could get through the start, there was a real chance I'd go to the top. A few days later — a little warm, but with a good wind — a group of friends hiked in every pad they could find and arranged themselves below. There was a lot of laughing and messing around while we got everything sorted, which was exactly what I needed to keep the tension low. I talked them through the sketchiest parts, told them there was a real chance the bottom boulder might take me all day — or might not go at all. Then I put my shoes on, pulled on, and climbed to the top. The feelings on the upper wall were exactly what I'd hoped for — calm, focused, and completely present. The noise from below only reached me on the top-out. It felt like finishing a sentence that someone else had started. Thanks to everyone that made it possible: Keenan Takahashi, Martin Käble, Ethan Pringle.”

Can you tell us more how you prepared for this trip getting this boulder peak?
Strangely, it seems like the less I train, the better I get! For example I didn’t climb or train at all this winter, I just skied, and when I came back to my projects in the spring, I sent a lot of them!!!

Honestly, I don’t really know what is happening. I was training semi regularly up until I climbed Echo wall a couple of years ago. After that I felt like I wanted a bit of a break so I took the summer off and in the autumn surprised myself by sending some long-term projects. I decided to continue the rhythm of just climbing outside whenever I felt like it, and doing other stuff when I didn’t, and it still seems to be working 🤣

I spoke to my Trainer Ollie about it and he doesn’t really understand it either, but told me if the machine isn’t broken, then don’t try to fix it!

Radek Votocek has completed Gritty Shaker (9a) in Salzburger Land. This was the tenth 9a for the 24-year-old Czech who sent his first only 16 months ago.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Gritty Shaker is a beautiful, powerful and technical route on sharp holds, established by Austrian climber Jakob Kronberger. It is located in the stunning mountain scenery of the Salzburg Alps. It is about 25 metres long, and its crux is in the final third of the climb. I’ve been trying to send this project since spring, but it wasn’t until this weekend, when the rock was finally perfectly dry, that everything came together and I managed to complete a beautiful ascent.

Benn Wheeler and Noah Wheeler, with three 9A’s to his name, have sent Gateway (8C) in Mount Blue Sky. Little brother Benn doing his first 8C, after eight 8B+’, comments.

”It was a great moment sending back to back, we both did it in 2 days and had a similar progression. The boulder fits my style perfectly. We shared some beta but used a slightly different methods, as his arms are shorter. I’m around the same height but have 4 inches [10 cm] in wingspan.”

Matteo Marobin, with two 9a+’ under his belt, has completed Jungle Boogie (9a+) in Céüse. The 21-year-old sent his first 9a at age 17.

Can you give us the full story of the ascent?
After sending Three Degrees of Separation at the end of summer 2024, I wanted more: a harder, more beautiful, more iconic route. I'd become addicted to the process of working a route and to the happiness felt after the send. Living in Toulouse (3h30 from Oliana) and being quite a fan of Chris Sharma, Fight or Flight seemed like an obvious choice in my mind. I won't lie, I was immediately won over. To my eyes it’s the holy grail, but I knew it was going to be a long-term project: only 6 ascents since Chris Sharma freed it in 2011, and no ascent since 2018. Stefano Ghisolfi even concluded that, in his eyes, it was the hardest 9b in the world.

So when I went back to Céüse in June 2025, my goal was to send Biographie within 3 months before going back to university in September, but I very quickly realized I wasn't strong enough on two-finger pockets. On top of that there were already 4 people trying it, which I'm not a fan of. Conversely, I love being the only one trying a route because it's in those moments that I feel like I can build a connection with it.

So I went to check out Jungle Boogie. It's true it destroys your skin — I've never climbed anything so brutal on the skin — but I realized it was 90% crimps, that the moves were really cool, and that the effort suited me well: 35 moves all at the same intensity. Pure power endurance! And the cherry on the cake, I was completely alone on it! The story could finally begin. What's more, when I looked at who had sent the route (Adam Ondra, Sachi Amma, Stefano Ghisolfi, Stefano Carnati, Alex Megos, Nico Pelorson, Jonathan Siegrist, and Min Young Lee), it made me dream. I really wanted to add my name alongside those climbing legends.

I quickly found beta that worked well for me. The hardest part was definitely managing my skin: I had to limit myself to two attempts a day, take more rest days than usual, and do only short trips so my skin could heal. Since I quickly felt good on the route, I thought it would come together fairly fast (and I probably wasn't the only one to think so, since one day someone climbing a 7b to the left told me he was going home the next day and couldn't wait to see the news on 8a.nu). Well, it ended up taking a bit longer than expected. From mid-July to mid-August, I kept falling at the same move and started thinking I simply wasn't strong enough to do it from the ground. It took Yannick Flohé coming to belay me to finally get past that move.

On the last day of my last trip of the 2025 season, hopes were high. The only dark cloud was that a storm was forecast for the end of the day. I needed to time my attempt just before the storm to take advantage of the wind, but not too late either, so as not to get caught in the rain. I put in my run 5 minutes too late, and the attempt ended in a win for the weather — even though I'd finally managed to get past that last hard move. I climbed back down from the cliff in the rain, drove back to Toulouse overnight, and by the time I arrived for class the next morning I found out it had been moved to 4pm. In short, I really needed a vacation.

Back in Céüse in early June, I took a few days to rework the sections and improve some beta; the feel for it came back very quickly. I reached a point where there was no randomness left in the route at all. When I put in runs, I could control 100% of the parameters, and it's the first time I've reached that level of mastery. I knew it was just a matter of time.

This Saturday, July 4th, I finally managed to line everything up and put in the right run. I did have a small scare though, since my brother, who was filming, accidentally put his foot on the foothold I needed to reach the final jug. Fortunately, a "your foot" was enough for him to understand I needed that hold. I gave it everything and managed to stop myself in the final jug. The 7b slab that follows went well, although with only 3 bolts over 25 meters of climbing it doesn't exactly inspire confidence about falling.

Afterwards, we went to celebrate the send at the Crux with all the climbers from the cliff, and we finally drank the 1.5L bottle of Justerini & Brooks I'd bought the year before, in reference to the route's initials (JB).

Ana Belen Argudo, with 50+ routes 8c to 9a under her harness, has sent Volando Voy 8c (+). ”The route has only a few ascents, the firsts said around 8c 8c/+ but I think that compared with the others 8c’s in Cuenca Volando Voy it’s a solid 8c+ (in my opinion😊)” (c) Javi Pec

Can you tell us more about the trip and the most memorable ascents?
We spent two months in Cuenca because our van broke down and while we were sorting everything out, we decided to bivouac there since it’s a comfortable place, close to the city, where we can be completely self-sufficient.

During this trip, I managed to send also Bodhisattva 8c (+) and four 8c’s: Nuria (8c), Dioses del Pan Frito (8c), La Espada de Damocles (8c) and Punch on ire (8c).

Austin Hoyt, who did his first 8C+ last December, has completed Creature From the Black Lagoon (8C+) in Upper Chaos. ”Getting shit done!!!! Tried a bit on my first mission out here a few weeks ago, by the end of the trip I had done the moves but links were pretty minimal. Once I got back to NY, I couldn’t shake the feeling of thinking I could do it. Maybe it was silly but I said fuck it and booked a ticket back. It fucking payed off!!!! At the beginning of the summer I said “I’m gonna go do creature”, and then I did it. Pretty hyped on this one, feels like a new hard style unlocked for me! Plus, it’s way cooler in person!”

Can you give us more details of the story behind the ascent?
At the start of summer I drove out from NY and tried it for two weeks. At the end of that trip, I had gotten close-ish but nothing major yet. As I drove back home, to a competition I qualified for, I decided if I made money at the comp I’d fly back and try creature again!

A few days later I was on a flight to Denver! On my first day back Noah helped me come up with some new beta and the links got bigger. On my 7th day of trying it, I finally climbed through the crux and to the top! No punts! Excited to finish this one up as it’s not particularly my style, almost the opposite I’d say… onto the next project! Some stuff in New York and Vermont that’s gonna be next level dope.

Laura Rogora, who last Thursday onsighted her third 8c+, visited Valnerina this weekend, where she each day sent an 8c, as well as, onsighted 8b and 8b+. Over the last 12 months, the Italian has onsighted 13 routes graded 8b+ and above. Only Adam Ondra has a more impressive annual onsight ticklist in the history of climbing. (c) Marco Marotta

Can you tell us more about the hectic weekend and the most memorable ascent?
After landing back from Barcelona, Marco took me straight to Il Bunker, a new crag in Valnerina that he’s developing, to try a project bolted by Mauro Calibani.

The route starts with a sustained 7c/7c+ section before reaching the crux, where you have to fight your way out of a steep roof. On my first go, I figured out the moves and found the right beta. On my second attempt, I did the FA of GSF (8c) (Global Sumud Flotilla). I’d call it a soft 8c, mainly because, at least for me, there’s an active rest before the hard crux.

After that, I also onsighted Frankie’s Funk (8b+) (soft), Pink panzer (8b) (hard), and Sóle Amerigane (8a+ hard), as the light was quickly fading.

Pink Panzer was a big fight, as both the line and the sequences were much less obvious.

What about the climbing on Sunday? Were you close to falling?
M&M (8b) went quite smoothly. On Duroi (8c), I was lucky to figure out the right beta for the first crux, which wasn't easy to read. After that, it was more about resistance, with a few harder moves. Near the end, I chose the wrong direction and came quite close to falling, but I managed to recover.

Go shorty (8c) is a variant of an 8b bolted and freed by Cody Roth that adds a hard boulder after a good rest. Cody's beta was quite morpho, so I went straighter on the slopy tufas. I did it on my third go.