Vertical-Life
Yeah Man! 8b+ MP by Lukas Sager (16)
"Every summer I go to the Gastlosen area. I am a “local”. I know the best places to sleep, to eat and of course to climb over there. In 2019 I met Cedric Lachat in the parking lot. He was on his way to climb some hard multi-pitch routes in Switzerland. Later I saw him on Yeah man. I fell in love with the line immediately. It took us 2 years to organize ourselves and take this project really seriously. Last summer, in this first Covid summer, I went to the Gast just to climb on the usual crags at the bottom of the faces. Thanks to my father and Beal I managed to collect all the gear we need in 2020. My goal was always clear: climb in red point all the lengths in one day. It is really not easy to climb, to eat, to rest and sleep with your father. Ther was a lot of tensions between us. I quit the Gruyère area to catch up with my mother. I came back with her to do a 2 days session in the route. She is quieter. Dor Roda was also a precious help for this adventure. He came 2 times. At the beginning to set up the static ropes and the first days in the route and he came back for the last part as well.
Resting was also a part of the process. I am not used to work a route endlessly, every single day in the route count. I learned a lot how to jumar and belay down on static ropes. The first day I have climbed to 4 pitches, then I work on pitches 5, 6, 7. And so on… After only 5 days in the route and a lot of rest days in between, I decided to make an attempt for my 6th day.
On Saturday 21st of august, I stood at the top after an incredible day in the route. I needed to twice climb the 6th and 8th lengths. The 6th is not hard grading (8a) but it is in your head: sensations, foot work, jump, small crimps… The 8th is the 8b+, I felt right at the top, needed to come back at the belay, recompose myself and send it. I was so engaged that I skipped 2 quick draws. I am so glad to stand at the top with my father and Dor."
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Cabane au Canada 9a by Lukas Sager (17)
Lukas Sager has done Cabane au Canada (9a) in Rawyl. The 17-year-old did it in two tries after first having done La Cabane au Paradis (8c+), that shares the fir…
Mistic 8c and two 8a OS by Lukas Sager (15)
Lukas Sager, who has been in Margalef with his father since December 26th, has done his second 8c, Mistic. During the last two weeks, he has also redpointed two…
L'espiadimonis 8c by Lukas Sager (15)
Lukas Sager, who has been in Margalef for four months, out of which the last two months without his parents, has done his third 8c, L'espiadimonis, during the l…
Cabane au Canada 9a by Lukas Sager (17)
Lukas Sager has done Cabane au Canada (9a) in Rawyl. The 17-year-old did it in two tries after first having done La Cabane au Paradis (8c+), that shares the fir…
Mistic 8c and two 8a OS by Lukas Sager (15)
Lukas Sager, who has been in Margalef with his father since December 26th, has done his second 8c, Mistic. During the last two weeks, he has also redpointed two…
L'espiadimonis 8c by Lukas Sager (15)
Lukas Sager, who has been in Margalef for four months, out of which the last two months without his parents, has done his third 8c, L'espiadimonis, during the l…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP (Misc/Unsorted). Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew …
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…