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Sputnik 8B flash by Tamas Zupan
"Each year I went out, looked at the boulder, and then determined that next year. Then, I had to stop for almost a year due to a back injury. It was hard to recover myself both physically and mentally. I was motivated and made a special, almost 1 year training plan to get stronger, including 6 months of climbing in 60 degrees overhang wall (where else) and campus, all with 17kg extra weight. I also paid attention for eating and stretching, which wasn’t really typical for me before. In this time I could avoid injuries and I was already in my top shape at the end of the vest period. I continued training and waited for the snow to melt in Sustenpass.
After a climbing day in Brione, I decided to go to check the boulder with my friend Tomi Agócs. It was around midnight. 4-5 celsius, all holds were dry, except for the top out, which was completely wet. After about 30 minutes of warming up, I was captured by the feeling that I had no chance of falling today. I could call it “flow”. (It was like when Yoda lifts the X-wing using force out of the swamp, or when Neo “starts to believing at last,” or when Thor gets Mjölnir back.)
Suddenly I felt like a superhero. Apparently, I wasn’t, but my brain believed my body. I sat under the boulder and simply climbed. The starting move, - which is one of the cruxes - went relatively statically, and I preferred to send the big cross move to prevent my feet from accidentally slipping down. After the cross move, the chalk had already soaked from my hand, a small step was broken, so I had to pull myself together to do the remaining 2 meters. It took me over 5 minutes… But it worked out!"
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
8B+ by Tamás Zupán
Tamas Zupan has done his first 8B+, Memento in Silvretta."Best ever! Hard first move and crazy jump!" Based on Tamás extreme progress the last few years we will most probably soon see an 8C! The classical dyno from a micro edge was set up by pioneer Bernd Zangerl in 2005 as an 8C+ and here he discu…
8C FA by Tamás Zupán
Tamas Zupan has done his third 8C, The Last Jedi in Remete-barlang. "About the name... I like star wars. And I hope I can find a new project until the next Star…
First 8C by Tamás Zupán and now wedding
Tamas Zupan has done his first 8C In Search of Time Lost in Magic Wood which was set up by Daniel Woods in 2008. "I worked two years (about 8 trips) I could d…
8B+ by Tamás Zupán
Tamas Zupan has done his first 8B+, Memento in Silvretta."Best ever! Hard first move and crazy jump!" Based on Tamás extreme progress the last few years we will most probably soon see an 8C! The classical dyno from a micro edge was set up by pioneer Bernd Zangerl in 2005 as an 8C+ and here he discu…
8C FA by Tamás Zupán
Tamas Zupan has done his third 8C, The Last Jedi in Remete-barlang. "About the name... I like star wars. And I hope I can find a new project until the next Star…
First 8C by Tamás Zupán and now wedding
Tamas Zupan has done his first 8C In Search of Time Lost in Magic Wood which was set up by Daniel Woods in 2008. "I worked two years (about 8 trips) I could d…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP (Misc/Unsorted). Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew …
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…