23 August 2021

Puro Dreaming 8c+ (9a) by Cody Roth (37)

Cody Roth has done Puro Dreaming in Arco which he thinks is 8c+. It was bolted by Alfredo Webber and originally thought to be 9a but possibly due to better kneebar technics, some have started calling it 8c+.

"I’ve been living in Arco since October. I work full time for Vertical-Life, whose main office is just an hour and some change from Arco. I’m able to do a lot of my work from home and with there being so many options close to Arco, I’m able to climb after work a few days a week. On average I probably climb three days a week. I haven’t climbed in a gym in over a year, but that will probably change come winter. I hadn’t tried Pure Dreaming in probably a month prior to doing it first go last week. It had been too warm for Massone, and I like having multiple projects and also spending some days onsighting and just messing around. I think if you solely focus on one project at a time, your climbing narrows and you lose your mental sharpness.

I think I’ve done close 10 8c’s or harder since moving to Arco. On all but one, as soon as I’ve done what was the barrier move for me, I’ve gone on to send. So, I guess I’ve been doing an okay job of converting the chances I get! Reini’s Vibes felt harder than Pure Dreaming, which is why I wouldn’t claim it at 9a. It has one move that’s a bit riskier, but it has better rests and requires less resistance."
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