Vertical-Life
Autoengaño 9a by Alex Ventajas
"I tried the route for five or six days. I think 13 attempts in all. Achieve this goal on time it’s great satisfaction and it means a lot to me. I tried the route from the first day we arrived, there were some friends that gave me some betas and at the first attempt I managed to do all the moves, but it was hard to put them all together because my body wasn’t trained enough for such physic climb. I knew it would be a great challenge because I had just two weeks to try it. The hardest part was to manage the pressure of this deadline and to organize well the rest days. Furthermore, I procured a really painful skin injury at one leg with a kneebar I had to use in the first crux and I had to stop trying the route for a couple of days. Trying different lines help me disconnect a little and gain some endurance. Finally, I managed to do that crux with a different beta that allowed me to use less the right knee and the next day, after two falls, I sent it."
You did three 8c+' in 2018 but then just 8c's until 2021 when you have done three 9a's. Why is that?
Unfortunately I didn’t have the possibility to try new hard routes because I had already done almost every route in the climbing sectors I could reach from my home. I didn’t have a car and I didn’t have the possibility to travel. That wasn’t a good period for me. I couldn’t improve and I couldn’t try something motivating. Since I moved to Italy things changed, I had thousands of new routes around and I progressively regained shape and motivation.
Why did you move to Italy?
It wasn’t something I planned. My girlfriend is from Italy. In the beginning, she should have moved to Spain, but with the covid situation things changed: she started working in Italy and I decided to follow her and I found a job there. She supports me more than everyone and thanks to that I have the opportunity I didn’t have before.
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Hades 9a by Alex Ventajas
Alex Ventajas has done in Nassereith after projecting it for five days. "I’m really happy about the work I made to send this stunning line. Differently from ot…
Trofeo dell'Adriatico 9a+ by Alex Ventajas
Alex Ventajas has repeated Gabri Moroni's Trofeo dell'Adriatico (9a+) in Arco. The Spaniard, living in Italy, has during the last two years done eight 9a's and …
Halupca 1979 (9a) by Alex Ventajas
Alex Ventajas, who previously has done two 9a+'s, has sent Halupca 1979 (9a) in Mišja Peč. Can you tell us more about the ascent? Halupca is a 30 meters endur…
Hades 9a by Alex Ventajas
Alex Ventajas has done in Nassereith after projecting it for five days. "I’m really happy about the work I made to send this stunning line. Differently from ot…
Trofeo dell'Adriatico 9a+ by Alex Ventajas
Alex Ventajas has repeated Gabri Moroni's Trofeo dell'Adriatico (9a+) in Arco. The Spaniard, living in Italy, has during the last two years done eight 9a's and …
Halupca 1979 (9a) by Alex Ventajas
Alex Ventajas, who previously has done two 9a+'s, has sent Halupca 1979 (9a) in Mišja Peč. Can you tell us more about the ascent? Halupca is a 30 meters endur…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP (Misc/Unsorted). Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew …
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…