Solomon Kemball sent Isles of Wonder Sit (8C) in May. "Absolute warfare on this one, 3 [individual] month-long trips and a year and a half of training. 8B for the bottom section is a joke 20+ sessions to get through that. I think the sit section has to be around 8C and the lowest it could be top end 8B+."

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen has flashed Afterlife (8B) in Felbertal. Here is his Instagram video.

Can you tell us more about the flash?
I have been chasing this for some time now, and I always said that flashing an 8B has been a 'life goal'. So that one is off the list.

When going to Felbertal I had already planned to have a serious flash attempt in Afterlife. And this time a real serious attempt. Normally, I don't like to put to much effort into my flashes, resulting in half-serious attempts. Not totally warm, not the best visualization, half-baked beta (especially for the foot), etc. But this time, I did everything right. I took my time (and some more), warmed up really well, visualized the moves. And I knew that this was the right problem for me; it should suit me really well. Also, conditions were good with a strong wind.

I watched some videos and took my time to check the holds But when I was ready to go for it, I started to feel nervous. It was weird to experience this 'comp-like' pressure. Normally, there is always a next go on projects. Only not this time. Only one try! A deep breath. And exe…

Janja Garnbret won over Ai Mori on countback from the qualification as they both topped the final route and reached 48+ in the semi. Over the 24 last World Cups and World Championships that Janja has competed in she has never placed lower than second in any Boulder or Lead event and she has won all Combined events. Complete results.

“Every single win means a lot to me, because I’m always with my feet on the ground, I don’t take things for granted, I’m always focused and determined to win, the feeling is incredible every single time. This was my last World Cup before the Olympics. I will go home and take some time to rest, and then train until Paris 2024!”

Jakob Schubert, who started last as he won the semifinal, pleased his home crowd in Innsbruck by climbing three holds higher than Alex Megos in the final. The 33-year-old got his fourth World Championship gold last year and he has also previously won 20 Lead World Cups. Complete results.

“Climbing here at home is always different, it’s always special, and this route today was exceptionally special because it was such a crazy fight from halfway up. Every move I felt like I was going to fall. I might have not been the best climber on the route tonight, but I was the best fighter, and that’s what brought me to victory. And it was also only possible because of the crowd.

I’m always really focused and don’t hear too much while I climb, I would say. I wouldn’t recognise which song was playing, but it was crazy loud when I made that move and I immediately knew that that was probably the victory. From there I felt like I could almost enjoy it… I mean, not really, because I was way too pumped.”

Sam Weir has completed Fuck the system (8C+) in Fionnay. ”Amazing. Fell on the 5a top out before the lip 6 weeks ago and waited patiently for it to be dry again. No knee bar. Style matters on this one for the grade to be correct. 8B/+ into 8B+. Best moves I have done on a boulder.

Can you tell us more about your ascent and the process that went into it?
I started trying FTS shortly after finishing Foundations Edge (8C) last may. I tried it once a week for the whole summer culminating in sticking the crux and then falling in the next 7C section. Fast foreword to 2024 I came back in way better shape and after a few sessions I managed to send the 8C+ part twice on the same day mid may and fell on 5a jugs so pumped and cold. I was sure it would go. Then 6 weeks of rain came in and the boulder has not been dry once. Yesterday I got my chance and I made it happen. Barely 😅 almost fell in every move but just kept going. I’ll miss this one.

I think it’s important to note the style in which this boulder is done. No knee bar is 8B/+ to 8B+ whereas with it’s 7B+ to 8B+ and you don’t climb the same moves. Seeing that FTS is a contrivance on its own (you could just after the first move hand foot match and re climb foundations) it should be done in this way for the grade :)

Sohta Amagasa won his first Boulder World Cup by completing three boulders in eight attempts, in the final in Innsbruck. The 24-year-old has until this year only been competing in the World Cup in 2021. Japan dominated, with seven athletes in the Top-10. (c) Lena Drapella/IFSC

“I can’t believe it, it feels like a dream! My performance today was very good, almost perfect. Now I will skip Lead and focus on the event in Prague. Arigato!”

1. Sohta Amagasa JPN 33 (8)
2. Meichi Narasaki JPN 33 (11)
3. Sorato Anraku JPN 23
4. Toby Roberts GBR 22
5. Elias Arriagada Kruger GER 13
6. Ritsu Kayotani JPN 3
Complete results.
IFSC video highlights.

Janja Garnbret was the only one to top all four boulders in the Innsbruck World Cup. During the last 25 Boulder World Cups and World Championship, since 2017, Janja has placed no lower than second.

“I was a little bit stressed today, to be honest. First, I very much enjoyed the semi-final, it was a hard round, the boulders were very hard, but this is what we train for. The final felt a little bit easier, I needed to stay focused until the end, and I’m happy that I managed to do it, I’m happy for the last boulder which was the hardest. It was a great test before Paris, I feel great.

Runner-up was her 17-year-old Slovenian team mate, Jennifer Eucharia Buckley followed by 16-year-old Anastasia Sanders.

It should be noted that out of the Top-12 in the recent Olympic qualification in Budapest, only Chaehyun Seo participated in Innsbruck. Complete results.

Beckett Hsin, who did his first 8C last December, has ticked The Mote in God's Eye (8B) at Lincoln Lake. In the junior ranking game, the 14-year-old is #2.

”Orginally me and Sam [Hsin] were up there trying this sick line To Your Scattered Bodies Go (8B) but we both shredded our skin pretty fast. Since everything in Lincoln is relatively close together we just walked around and checked out some of the nearby boulders. We looked at Mote, which Sam had already sent, and I got psyched. I think I sent the rig in a little over an hour.”

Arne Farestveit has repeated Seb Bouin’s Little Badder (9a) in Flatanger. The 22-year-old has previously done four routes 8c+ and harder in the cave. “Really physical climbing with a pretty hard crux. I'm so happy I didn't fall after the main crux. Checked it out for a few days in May, then about 2,5 weeks now. Psyched!! :)” (c) Keith Sharples

What does Flatanger mean to you?
Flatanger is a very special place for me. The rock here is just the best in the world, and the physical, yet complex and bouldery style of the routes is something that have always intrigued me. From barely being able to scratch together single moves of the cruxes, to figuring out the most efficient way to move on the climb, as well as how, when and where to rest in the kneebars, to then eventually going all the way from the ground, is a process I find truly special about Flatanger. Since I was 17 years old I came to Flatanger every summer for a minimum of 2 weeks, and the cave has taught me so much about redpointing hard routes. From sending my first 8b+, Nordic Flower, to the immense journey of climbing my first 9a, Valhalla, this place is forever imbounded to my climbing style. There is still so much left to do, so I am sure I will come back to Hanshelleren for a long time to come.

In January Francesco Berardino sent three 8C+'s in two weeks and here is the footage from Yannick Flohe's Return of the Dreamtime (8C+) and Dave Graham's Celestite (8C+). "I tried it a lot with Dave Graham when he did the FA last year but his kneebar solution was impossible for me. Giul [Cameroni] found a blind foot which makes it easier for me." The 8C+ missing a video of is Giuliano Cameroni's REM (8C+).