NEWS

8A+ in Font by Isabelle Faus

Isabelle Faus has done Partage 8A+ in Fontainebleau considered by many as one of the very best aretes in the world. Very few female has previously done 8A+ in the famous forest. Isabelle, who did her first 8A when she was 16, is #3 in the world ranking game. "I did one session to figure out the beta, and got up pretty high, but couldn't figure out the top… Then I watched some videos of short people climbing it, went back, and did it the first try of my second day trying it.

Prinzip Hoffnung 8b+ trad by Christian Bindhammer (38)

Christian Bindhammer, who has done several 9a's and who has been #2 in three WC's, has done Prinzip Hoffnung 8b+ after five days projecting. The 38 year old has never tried trad climbing before and luckily he did it without any fall. "For me really something new, actually I wasn't sure how I'll climb if there is no bolt, but I was really surprised that I was very focused and absolute not nervous will trying from below. Climbing itself like toprope, the route is maybe 8b, but of course putting the gear it needs much more power and time, this makes the route around a grade more difficult. But sure you need a strong head for it... Or just to be more young and don't think to much what could happen

Fish Eye 8c by Hazel Findlay

Hazel Findlay, one of the most talented female trad and big wall climbers in the world, has done her first 8c, Fish Eye in Oliana after seven days of projecting. (c) Walker Emerson Blog focusing on her adventures. "Although I don't focus on sport climbing so much I spend about 6 weeks each year sport climbing in Spain, mostly as training for something in particular such as a single pitch or multi-pitch trad route. This year I was supposed to be training for Freerider in a day (so mileage) but I got sucked in to trying Fish Eye.

Ramonet does his 37th 9a

Ramon Julian has set up El Desentreno Mental in La Cova de l'Ocell which is his 37th 9a and harder out of which twelve FAs. Ramonet, 159 cm, did his first 9a in 2002, the same year he won his first Lead World Cup out of twenty victories. As he also has been the world champion two times it is easy to say that he has been the best sport climber in the world counting the last twelve years. (c) M.alba

I Portici 8A+ by Kasia Pietras

Kasia Pietras has done her first 8A+, I Portici in Osogna which is one of Fred Nicole's classic test pieces and which has been given three stars by all seven 8a entries. "Took me 6 days to complete this one... it was a great experience to project a hard boulder! Super psyched to have completed the boulder! Psyched for more climb- ing in Swiss!! I think it is a super classic boulder in Ticino, another great boulder that Fred Nicole has put up!! I'm super psyched that it's my first of the grade!

Based on close to 1 000 votes, (Favorite climbing clothes brand?), we can see so pretty dramatic changes compared to 2009. 29 % Prana (42 % 2009) 22 % E9 (14 %) 10 % La Sportiva - 07 % Moon (9 %) 07 % Mammut (7 %) 05 % Chillaz (3 %) 04 % Verve (6 %) 16 % Other (Nihil, The North Face and Adidas most mentioned)

3 April 2014

The 8B+ league

Here is the Top-10 list of which active 8a members have done the most 8B+ and harder. In brackets is the last 12 months figure which James Webb is in the lead. It should be noted that the list is based on personal gradings and even if all have done many, James and Adam are sticking out. 1. Daniel Woods 73 (14 last 12 months) 2. Paul Robinson 72 (15) 3. David Graham 65 (7) 4. James Webb 42 (22) 5. Bernhard Schwaiger 34 (1) 6. Adam Ondra 31 (4) 7. Carlo Traversi 20 (2) 8. Chris Webb-Parsons 19 (4) 9. Jan Hojer 17 (8) 10. Gui-Gui Mondet 15 (5)

Boreal's gathering in Chulilla + <font color="red">Interviews</font>

By mid March, Boreal gathered some of its most representative athletes in Albarracín and Chulilla. There we saw first hand how much their new climbing shoes line had improved. We took advantage of this opportunity to have a little chat with some of these climbers (Nacho Sánchez, Raquel Hernández and Edu Marín). Don't miss out on the interviews and the nice pictures shot by David Munilla in this article.

Barbara Raudner (41) does 8b+ in Oliana

Barbara Raudner, who started climbing when she was 28, has done Los Humildes Pa Casa 8b+ in Oliana. Fotocredit: Flo Murnig. More great pictures at Barbara's blog. "Los Humildes Pa Casa is such an amazing route, for me one of the best lines! It has been bolted by Oscar Jiménez as one of the first lines in Oliana and many people call it as „the line of the sector“. If you arrive at the parking and you see the outstanding long tufa line, you just want to try it. My good friend Roger Schäli and me had a great time climbing in Oliana the past few weeks together with so many nice people." What is the secret of your continous progress and what is next? I am always motivated to try hard, to enjoy climbing and to have fun with my friends. I have a lot of new projects in my mind ... in the near future I am psyched to take part at the San Vito Climbing Festival in Sicily in May together with my best friend Daila Ojeda.