Previously, several E10 and harder have been reported on the UK trad scene but during the last few years almost none have been done beside Psykovsky's Sequins which later was down graded to E8. The most famous is possibly Dave MacLeod's Rhapsody E11 from 2006, see the picture and video trailer from Hot Aches. The logical explanation for this is that most of the finest hard and dangerous lines have been done and it is not equally interesting to repeat a dangerous route as to make the FA. Another possible explanation could be that crash pads and better belay strategies have down graded potential E10's as they have reduced the death and injury potential. Further more, dangerous routes might not be so interesting for the new younger gym generation as the boulder and sport climbing possibilities are much greater compared to ten years ago. It should be noted that the trad scene when it comes to more moderate E-grades are very much alive in and that the trad climbing in UK is probably the best in the world not counting crack climbing. The E-grades has a great tradition and work fine for anybody who wants to select which route to onsight as the scale are based both on the pure difficulty and how dangerous they are.

DMM has the great story of Ben Bransby 2nd ascent of Pete Whittaker’s impressive Baron Greenback at Wimberry Rocks, check the video. In order to protect the start Ben carried up a nine-foot wooden fencing post, see the picture. Higher up on the route he used a half a meter bamboo cane to stick clip the 50+ year old 6 mm and 1 cm long rusty bolt as the FA did. Once it was stick clipped Ben reversed to the ground before he started his attempt, the first half on two top ropes. This weekend, the FA Pete Whittaker, did a new direct FA where he first equalized bolts 2 and 3 together with a sling that had a loop for the quick draw. Pete also used several crash pads to protect the start. Regarding the grade, Ben has said, “I think the grade would probably be E9 6c but it is pretty dependent on whether 50+ year-old aid bolts stay in! If they are bomber it would be more like E8 and if they ripped it would be E10, so E9 seems like a good compromise. Hard F8a+ is probably accurate for the climbing.” The UK E-grades are partly based on how dangerous a route is so if it turns out nobody is injured on the route, it will get E8 but in the worst case (and also in the future if the bolts are not replaced) it will become an E10. It should also be noted that the E-grades measures how hard and dangerous a route is to onsight so in practice the E-grade of Baron Greenback is just fun fiction.

Ethan Walker has had two good weeks making two personal best by first doing Keen Roof 8B and later Belly of the Beast giving it a personal grade of 8B+. "Never fought as hard on anything before I don't think! All out on the final moves. Had turned into a slight mental battle but today with warmer temps, everything clicked liked it should. Feeling in the best shape of my whole life right now, super psyched for whatevers next! Pizza time!

There are now 5 000 crags in the 8a database. All these crags and mentioned sectors have at least 50 ascents. Now the webmaster has made it possible for 8a members to manually add crags and sectors in order to promote also smaller and new climbing spots. You find the link at the top where you add routes and boulders. Once you have done this, you can sort the climbs from Left-to-Right in order to create a Topo that is both visible in the 8A Topo and in the 8a database. We hope the App, available both for iPhones and Androids, will become the future topo bible.

Rok Klancik has done the third? repeat of Klem Loskot's Bügeleisen in Malatal from giving it a personal upgrade to 8C. "I think this problem is much, much harder then most 8B+'s. Perfect line! Sit start is now a big project." More info at SloClimbing Bügeleisen was put up in 2001, in the start of the grade inflation era, and it seems to be the hardest boulder back then and possibly also the first 8C in the world. Rok has previously done From Dirt Grows the Flowers, a super nice 8C in Chironico which Graham, Zangerl, Hukkataival, Page, Soucek and Ondra have done.

James Webb, the best flash boulderer in the world, has done it again by Riverbed 8B in Magic Woods. During the last year he has flashed 39 8A and harder including five 8B's. "SO pumped on the finish! Always wanted to this thing. It looks amazing and climbs even better. Perfect day in the forest!" James also did Mystic Stylez 8B+ in 30 minutes meaning that he has done nine 8B+ and harder the last month!

IFSC has three times changed the dates for the Youth World Championship in New Caledonia and the current dates are Sepember 20 - 24. During the Plenary Assembly March 1, it was also decided that the Europeans should try travel together in order to save money. An Internet link where National Federations can find all the information to book travels for their competitors, team officials and accompanying people will be available soon." So far, no info is available and some Euro national federations have started to complain and in fact, the german federation has said that they will not go to the Youth World Championship.

Over the past few months Chris Schulte has been developing new proud boulders in an area previously known only as a crack climbing destination. In this new video he shows some of his new lines and tells about this special area. More info here.

Comparing the hardest reported male grades the last year with the hardest reported 8a news ten years ago, it has actually been a decline. In 2003, we reported the first 9b+, Chilam Balam and several 8C+ boulders; Koyamada (2), Calibani and Nicole. All these great ascents have been down graded. In this period, also several 9a+ and 8C were reported which when it comes to boulders, almost all have been down graded. When it comes to juniors, still the 2004 ascents are more impressive than the todays standard. Daniel Woods (15) did the FA of Echale 8B+ and Adam Ondra (11) onsighted eleven 8a+ and here is Adam's first interview.