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What are your thoughts about Climbing in the Olympics?
I just watch qualifications. I was at the crag during finals.
1) we produced a great show for the mass media and the public. I think that the climbing movement, which is unique, is now shared with more and more people, who will start and enjoy climbing. We have a responsibility as media to educate them and to spread authentic climbing values. That's the main reason we created Fanatic: was to promote an outdoor climbing culture.
2) A critic about the comp format. I think that the rest in between the different disciplines were too short and we didn't watch the best climbing, especially in lead. Climbers were exhausted some got injured. It's not a good organization. I hope in Paris for the combined more time and rest could be better for the best show and performance. It could be like, one-day bouldering quali followed by one day lead quali one day rest and then the same for the finals.
3) The ranking with multiplication is too complex. We need to find a way to have a more simple ranking. That's my thoughts but I want to say that I'm more turned on outdoors. So my opinion doesn't really count, lol :)

Last critic, the 🎥 were quite bad in France on the tv. Often the angles were bad we didn't see them very well. They should deal with some filmmakers who know how to correctly film climbing.

How much coverage did Climbing get into general media in France?
Newspapers in France are mainly focused on team sports; rugby, football and handball. I dunno if some articles on climbing were written about climbing. I think that climbing has seen maximum ten lines in French press. I think just the results.

Pierre Délas, editor in chief of Fanatic Climbing, has done his first-ever 8c+, Hélix au pays des merveilles in Pic St Loup. (c) Pierre Trolliet

"I wanted to climb this line since the first time I came to this beautiful cave seven years ago. Some good friends like Nina Caprez and Maxime Clerc convinced me to put the route on my to-do and that could be doable. I started the process one year ago, with 15 sessions last July. I could do good links but after 6 weeks of lockdown, my shape was not the best. I did another 15 sessions this spring but the weather was not the best. A lot of rain...but anyhow I fell 5 times at the end of the top resistance section. I started to get close. I returned here in July and could finally finish the line after 8 more falls in the top section and 15 more sessions."

How can you explain doing a grade PB being 40 having climbed for like 30 years?
When I was young I didn't put my self big projects. I tried to redpoint the routes in few sessions to climb the most 8th-grade routes I can (more than 500 now). It's my friend Lucien Martinez who gave me the motivation to try hard lines at my limits. I have a lot of experience now after 30 years climbing and I decided it was a good moment before being too old; -)

Have you train in any different way the last year?
Due to lockdown and restrictions, I couldn't climb indoors. I did a lot of bouldering in Font where I choose some 7B-7C physical lines, to do as training this winter. For 5 years I have struggled with back problems but last December, after making an analysis I started to work with a very good physio. Until June, I did 20 sessions with him and he gave me exercises of yoga, body tension and mobility. Later also some bodybuilding exercises. Now my back is better and I could climb without big problems. Some times some pain but with exercises and the complex pain is reduced.

BJ Tilden has done his sixth 9a FA, Pneuma in The Temple. The 40-year-old has the full video on his Insta where he also said it took him eleven sessions.

"Probably the best power endurance route I’ve ever done. 24 moves from jug to jug with no relaxing whatsoever. It’s hard to clip just enough of the bolts (basically every other) and I chalk my left hand once and my right hand not at all. The movement and rock quality are top notch!"

IFSC has published a press release with comments by Janja Garnbret, Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi. (c) https://lt11.com/

Garnbret: “I'm so happy that I can't even describe it, it’s like a dream coming true. I wrote on Instagram probably six or more years ago, I wrote, ‘See you in Tokyo!’ so it's a dream come true."

Nonaka: “It’s unbelievable to have the medal in my hands, I believed I could win the silver soon, but I still can’t believe I did. It's wonderful".

Noguchi: “I only felt that I would do my best, but I didn't do as well as I wanted. After the bouldering discipline I was worried whether I would get a medal or not. But with Miho winning silver, I got the bronze. I feel I'm very worthy of the bronze medal."

What a ride! After four days of spectacular climbing and a lot of surprises, the Olympic Games Sport Climbing medals have been awarded! Now that we know the winners, you can check how well you did with your prediction. Head over to the predictions page, check your score and compare your performance to the other 8a members. Winners will be drawn at the beginning of next week! While every participant will receive a 1-month Premium subscription for the Vertical-Life Climbing app, the amazing adidas Five Ten prizes will be awarded to a few you. Only one member managed to score 1000 points, and by doing so, won the grand prize!

Janja Garnbret was the big favourite coming into the Olympics and delivered just like she has been doing the last few years, winning in both Bouldering and Lead. Runner-ups were Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi from Japan, who did her last competition after a very impressive 17(!!) years international competition career. As the lead qualification winner, Chaehyun Seo, who has beaten Janja in five out of their seven competitions, began her climb, there was a big drama about who was going to get the bronze medal. At one point, Jessica Pilz had the bronze but then Seo surpassed her and Noguchi was back on the podium, unless Seo would beat Garnbret, in which case the Korean would get the bronze.

#4 was the new Speed World record holder Aleksandra Miroslaw (POL) having been beaten by Akiyo in two out of the three disciplines. Noteworthy is also that in practice, Miroslaw lost her bronze due to countback in bouldering.

Like in the men's final, the Lead route was great, while the boulders were too hard. The camera work and direction was again not good with many distracting close-ups. On the other hand, the Eurosport commentator did an excellent job, including explaining all the possible multiplication outcomes live.

1. Janja Garnbret 5 * 1 * 1 = 5 (c) Jon Glassberg/Louder Than 11
2. Miho Nonaka 3 * 3 * 5 = 45
3. Akiyo Noguchi 4 * 4 * 4 = 64
4. Aleksandra Miroslaw 1 * 8 * 8 = 64
5. Brooke Raboutou 7 * 2 * 6 = 84
6. Anouck Jaubert 2 * 6 * 7 = 84
7. Jessica Pilz 6 * 5 * 3 = 90
8. Chaehyoun Seo 8 * 7 * 2 = 112

The screenshot is from Olympics.com. If the ranking in the lead stage is the same as in lead qualifications, then the medals go to Garnbret, Nonaka and Seo, see below. This is also true if the order of the athletes is the same and Garnbret places 2nd or 3rd. If Janja places first and everyone else's order is the same, Miroslaw replaces Seo on the podium. Jessy Pilz can get a medal (silver) if she wins the lead stage. Nonaka will get a medal if she places 6th. Brooke Raboutou probably needs a third place in Lead to take a medal (along with Nonaka and Garnbret).
1 Garnbret Janja (SLO) 5*1 -- 5
2 Miroslaw Aleksandra (POL) 1*8 -- 8
3 Nonaka Miho (JPN) 3 *3 -- 9
4 Jaubert Anouck (FRA) 2*6 -- 12
5 Raboutou Brooke (USA) 7 *2 -- 14
6 Noguchi Akiyo (JPN) 4*4 -- 16
7 Pilz Jessica (AUT) 6 *5 -- 30
8 Seo Chaehyun (KOR) 8*7 -- 56