Lucile Saurel, who this winter did her first 8A+, has completed Jack's broken heart (8A+) in Magic Wood. ”I loved this boulder so much, powerful and crimpy movements, all what I love!” (c) Aurele Bremond

The 23-year-old is an active competition climber who was #4 in the Youth World Championship in 2019. This year she has made the podium in one European Cup.

What is your next plan?
For climbing, I wait for the french sélection if I can participate at the european Championship in the end of august… and maybe go in Fionnay to climb outdoors and in Magic Woods maybe!

Shauna Coxsey reports with an Instagram video that she has sent SUPERMAN (8B) at Cressbrook. "A Peak classic I was almost sure I'd never do. A true finger strength test-piece for sure. Proud of this one!"

Paul Houghoughi took the picture and reports that, as part of her warm-up, she sent Bizarre Ride (8A) on her second go and that she did Superman on her fourth go from the start.

Marco Müller, has added to the ten 9a's he's already redpointed by by climbing, Super Finale (9a) in Rawyl. (c) Alois Remund

“I first tried this route around two months ago. Since then, it’s been quite difficult due to the conditions, as it usually rained over the weekends. Nevertheless, I could work on the sections for a couple of days. Last weekend, the weather looked promising, the route was dry, and I was able to fight my way up.”

What is coming up next?
I want to check out Thor's Hammer (9a+) in Flatanger and see if it’s possible to complete it within the three weeks I am there. Otherwise, I’m going to try something easier. There are still many routes I haven’t tried yet.

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen has flashed Afterlife (8B) in Felbertal. Here is his Instagram video.

Can you tell us more about the flash?
I have been chasing this for some time now, and I always said that flashing an 8B has been a 'life goal'. So that one is off the list.

When going to Felbertal I had already planned to have a serious flash attempt in Afterlife. And this time a real serious attempt. Normally, I don't like to put to much effort into my flashes, resulting in half-serious attempts. Not totally warm, not the best visualization, half-baked beta (especially for the foot), etc. But this time, I did everything right. I took my time (and some more), warmed up really well, visualized the moves. And I knew that this was the right problem for me; it should suit me really well. Also, conditions were good with a strong wind.

I watched some videos and took my time to check the holds But when I was ready to go for it, I started to feel nervous. It was weird to experience this 'comp-like' pressure. Normally, there is always a next go on projects. Only not this time. Only one try! A deep breath. And exe…

Janja Garnbret won over Ai Mori on countback from the qualification as they both topped the final route and reached 48+ in the semi. Over the 24 last World Cups and World Championships that Janja has competed in she has never placed lower than second in any Boulder or Lead event and she has won all Combined events. Complete results.

“Every single win means a lot to me, because I’m always with my feet on the ground, I don’t take things for granted, I’m always focused and determined to win, the feeling is incredible every single time. This was my last World Cup before the Olympics. I will go home and take some time to rest, and then train until Paris 2024!”

Jakob Schubert, who started last as he won the semifinal, pleased his home crowd in Innsbruck by climbing three holds higher than Alex Megos in the final. The 33-year-old got his fourth World Championship gold last year and he has also previously won 20 Lead World Cups. Complete results.

“Climbing here at home is always different, it’s always special, and this route today was exceptionally special because it was such a crazy fight from halfway up. Every move I felt like I was going to fall. I might have not been the best climber on the route tonight, but I was the best fighter, and that’s what brought me to victory. And it was also only possible because of the crowd.

I’m always really focused and don’t hear too much while I climb, I would say. I wouldn’t recognise which song was playing, but it was crazy loud when I made that move and I immediately knew that that was probably the victory. From there I felt like I could almost enjoy it… I mean, not really, because I was way too pumped.”

Sam Weir has completed Fuck the system (8C+) in Fionnay. ”Amazing. Fell on the 5a top out before the lip 6 weeks ago and waited patiently for it to be dry again. No knee bar. Style matters on this one for the grade to be correct. 8B/+ into 8B+. Best moves I have done on a boulder.

Can you tell us more about your ascent and the process that went into it?
I started trying FTS shortly after finishing Foundations Edge (8C) last may. I tried it once a week for the whole summer culminating in sticking the crux and then falling in the next 7C section. Fast foreword to 2024 I came back in way better shape and after a few sessions I managed to send the 8C+ part twice on the same day mid may and fell on 5a jugs so pumped and cold. I was sure it would go. Then 6 weeks of rain came in and the boulder has not been dry once. Yesterday I got my chance and I made it happen. Barely 😅 almost fell in every move but just kept going. I’ll miss this one.

I think it’s important to note the style in which this boulder is done. No knee bar is 8B/+ to 8B+ whereas with it’s 7B+ to 8B+ and you don’t climb the same moves. Seeing that FTS is a contrivance on its own (you could just after the first move hand foot match and re climb foundations) it should be done in this way for the grade :)

Sohta Amagasa won his first Boulder World Cup by completing three boulders in eight attempts, in the final in Innsbruck. The 24-year-old has until this year only been competing in the World Cup in 2021. Japan dominated, with seven athletes in the Top-10. (c) Lena Drapella/IFSC

“I can’t believe it, it feels like a dream! My performance today was very good, almost perfect. Now I will skip Lead and focus on the event in Prague. Arigato!”

1. Sohta Amagasa JPN 33 (8)
2. Meichi Narasaki JPN 33 (11)
3. Sorato Anraku JPN 23
4. Toby Roberts GBR 22
5. Elias Arriagada Kruger GER 13
6. Ritsu Kayotani JPN 3
Complete results.
IFSC video highlights.

Janja Garnbret was the only one to top all four boulders in the Innsbruck World Cup. During the last 25 Boulder World Cups and World Championship, since 2017, Janja has placed no lower than second.

“I was a little bit stressed today, to be honest. First, I very much enjoyed the semi-final, it was a hard round, the boulders were very hard, but this is what we train for. The final felt a little bit easier, I needed to stay focused until the end, and I’m happy that I managed to do it, I’m happy for the last boulder which was the hardest. It was a great test before Paris, I feel great.

Runner-up was her 17-year-old Slovenian team mate, Jennifer Eucharia Buckley followed by 16-year-old Anastasia Sanders.

It should be noted that out of the Top-12 in the recent Olympic qualification in Budapest, only Chaehyun Seo participated in Innsbruck. Complete results.

Beckett Hsin, who did his first 8C last December, has ticked The Mote in God's Eye (8B) at Lincoln Lake. In the junior ranking game, the 14-year-old is #2.

”Orginally me and Sam [Hsin] were up there trying this sick line To Your Scattered Bodies Go (8B) but we both shredded our skin pretty fast. Since everything in Lincoln is relatively close together we just walked around and checked out some of the nearby boulders. We looked at Mote, which Sam had already sent, and I got psyched. I think I sent the rig in a little over an hour.”