Sam Weir has completed Fuck the system (8C+) in Fionnay. ”Amazing. Fell on the 5a top out before the lip 6 weeks ago and waited patiently for it to be dry again. No knee bar. Style matters on this one for the grade to be correct. 8B/+ into 8B+. Best moves I have done on a boulder.

Can you tell us more of the ascent and the process behind?
I started trying FTS shortly after finishing Foundations Edge (8C) last may. I tried it once a week for the whole summer culminating in sticking the crux and then falling in the next 7C section. Fast foreword to 2024 I came back in way better shape and after a few sessions I managed to send the 8C+ part twice on the same day mid may and fell on 5a jugs so pumped and cold. I was sure it would go. Then 6 weeks of rain came in and the boulder has not been dry once. Yesterday I got my chance and I made it happen. Barely 😅 almost fell in every move but just kept going. I’ll miss this one.

I think it’s important to note the style in which this boulder is done. No knee bar is 8B/+ to 8B+ whereas with it’s 7B+ to 8B+ and you don’t climb the same moves. Seeing that FTS is a contrivance on its own (you could just after the first move hand foot match and re climb foundations) it should be done in this way for the grade :)

Sohta Amagasa won his first Boulder World Cup by completing three boulders in eight attempts, in the final in Innsbruck. The 24-year-old has until this year only been competing in the World Cup in 2021. Japan dominated, with seven athletes in the Top-10. (c) Lena Drapella/IFSC

“I can’t believe it, it feels like a dream! My performance today was very good, almost perfect. Now I will skip Lead and focus on the event in Prague. Arigato!”

1. Sohta Amagasa JPN 33 (8)
2. Meichi Narasaki JPN 33 (11)
3. Sorato Anraku JPN 23
4. Toby Roberts GBR 22
5. Elias Arriagada Kruger GER 13
6. Ritsu Kayotani JPN 3
Complete results.
IFSC video highlights.

Janja Garnbret was the only one to top all four boulders in the Innsbruck World Cup. During the last 25 Boulder World Cups and World Championship, since 2017, Janja has placed no lower than second.

“I was a little bit stressed today, to be honest. First, I very much enjoyed the semi-final, it was a hard round, the boulders were very hard, but this is what we train for. The final felt a little bit easier, I needed to stay focused until the end, and I’m happy that I managed to do it, I’m happy for the last boulder which was the hardest. It was a great test before Paris, I feel great.

Runner-up was her 17-year-old Slovenian team mate, Jennifer Eucharia Buckley followed by 16-year-old Anastasia Sanders.

It should be noted that out of the Top-12 in the recent Olympic qualification in Budapest, only Chaehyun Seo participated in Innsbruck. Complete results.

Beckett Hsin, who did his first 8C last December, has ticked The Mote in God's Eye (8B) at Lincoln Lake. In the junior ranking game, the 14-year-old is #2.

”Orginally me and Sam [Hsin] were up there trying this sick line To Your Scattered Bodies Go (8B) but we both shredded our skin pretty fast. Since everything in Lincoln is relatively close together we just walked around and checked out some of the nearby boulders. We looked at Mote, which Sam had already sent, and I got psyched. I think I sent the rig in a little over an hour.”

Arne Farestveit has repeated Seb Bouin’s Little Badder (9a) in Flatanger. The 22-year-old has previously done four routes 8c+ and harder in the cave. “Really physical climbing with a pretty hard crux. I'm so happy I didn't fall after the main crux. Checked it out for a few days in May, then about 2,5 weeks now. Psyched!! :)” (c) Keith Sharples

What does Flatanger mean to you?
Flatanger is a very special place for me. The rock here is just the best in the world, and the physical, yet complex and bouldery style of the routes is something that have always intrigued me. From barely being able to scratch together single moves of the cruxes, to figuring out the most efficient way to move on the climb, as well as how, when and where to rest in the kneebars, to then eventually going all the way from the ground, is a process I find truly special about Flatanger. Since I was 17 years old I came to Flatanger every summer for a minimum of 2 weeks, and the cave has taught me so much about redpointing hard routes. From sending my first 8b+, Nordic Flower, to the immense journey of climbing my first 9a, Valhalla, this place is forever imbounded to my climbing style. There is still so much left to do, so I am sure I will come back to Hanshelleren for a long time to come.

Delphine Chenevier has repeated Christophe Bellini’s (aka tatalacuvette) Ultime err’ANX (8c) in Gorges de Crossey. The 49-year-old, who sent her first 8c last year, did her first 8b more than twenty years ago and in 1999, she placed #6 in a Boulder World Cup. (c) Jocelyn Chavit - Alpine Mag

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
To be honest, I was quite in good shape this spring, having climbed two 8b+ routes, but I never thought I’d climb another 8c. However, as I always say: never say never and always keep the motivation and passion for climbling alive!

The route connects the hard sections of an 8a+/8b and an 8b+. It’s a demanding climb in the purest style of Grenoble, requiring precise footwork and finger strength. It’s a long 40-meter journey up an amazing grey wall. The beauty of the rock and the complexity of the moves motivated me to try this route. I spent around 10 sessions working on it, but I already knew the final part, the 8b+ called Vagabond d’ANX, which I climbed in May. I think I spent three sessions just figuring out the beta for the 8a+/8b part. But I like this part of the process when you are in doubt and find beta that make things becoming feasible while you had the first feeling that it was not possible. I look for that good sensation on the rock, this relationship with climbing and the movement.

After finding all the beta, I quickly had the feeling that it could be possible to send the route, but psychologically, it was a bit frustrated as I had to deal with bad conditions (we have a very, very rainy spring in France) and the fatigue linked to my professional activity. All in all, I’m very happy to have clipped the chains of this beautiful route.

Ainhize Belar Barrutia, who has sent ten routes 8c to 9a, over just the last year, has done Ildonuska (8c) in Baltzola. The 18-year-old is runner-up in the ranking game after Martina Demmel. (c) Aitziber Narbaiza

Can you tell us more about your latest 8c?
The route has the same start as my current project and I decided to try it to combine and make different moves. It’s a very long route, with an intense traverse and a crimpy final after some knees [kneebars]. I tried it a little a couple of months ago and yesterday I did it on my first go.

What's the other project you have going that shares a start with this one?
Iñi Ameriketan (9a), I have managed to make some very good tries, now I have to be patient and continue working!!

Brooke Raboutou, who won the first Olympic Qualifier Series in Shanghai, won in Budapest as well, securing her Olympic ticket. The runner-up was Miho Nonaka, who scored 156 points which was just 3.8 points shy of Brooke, and placing third was Erin McNeice who was a further 28.5 points behind. Complete results

Raboutou said: "It’s hard to believe, I’m incredibly happy. It’s been a hard journey. I missed some chances to qualify. So it was panic no, stress yes. It’s been a lot of heartbreak and a lot of growth. Honestly, I am grateful for it all. They say the harder the journey the better it feels, and I could not feel that more. I am incredibly proud about how much each stage taught me. I’ve had really good performances."

The podium at the OQS in Budapest was the same as in Shanhai and Luo Zhilu, Seo Chaehyun, Laura Rogora, Mia Krampl, Ievgennia Kazbekova, Lucia Dorffel, Zelia Avezou, Camilla Moroni and Molly Thompson-Smith secured the last nine remaining Olympic slots. Complete results of the OQS.

Sam Avezou won a hard final in Budapest getting 105.6 points, after having won in Boulder and placing third in Lead. The runner-up was Lee Dohyun followed by Adam Ondra. Complete results.

Avezou, who also saw his sister qualify for Paris, said, "I never reacted this well to pressure before. You could see in Shanghai it wasn’t great (he slipped on the first hold in Lead in the final). I am super happy I could manage eventually the pressure here and yeah, probably under pressure my best climbs ever.”

Twelve competitors from the two combined QS events held in Shanghai and Budapest secured the remaining Olympic spots available. In the men's event Mejdi Schalck placed sixth but missed out on qualification due to France's country quota being filled and thus, 13th placed Yufei Pan of China took his spot. See the full results here, Complete OQS results

Mattea Pötzi, who was #15 in the Lead World Cup last year, has done Der Nihilist (8A+) in Zillertal. The 23-year-old Austrian has been an active competition climber since 2018 focusing on Boulder events as a junior where she won two Euro Youth Cups. (c) Giacomo Meneghello

Can you tell us more about your ascent?
I came to the boulder for the first time yesterday, after having heard about it quite a lot already. I didn't think it would suit me too well, because the first move is a far move out of a high heel, which is exactly the kind of move I don't like and find quite scary. At first I couldn't do a sinkle move but after about an hour and a half of trying I had all the moves, except for the topout which was a bit wet and I didn't dare do it. When I was giving it send goes I sent it on my third go from the ground. What makes it even better, I sent together with my boyfriend Miro Enzenberger. For both if us it was our first 8A+.

What are your summer plans?
I am doing the World Cups and after Briancon I am going to Céüse.