25 May 2020

Oriane adds a new style

Some 20 years ago, Chris Sharma added a new style to the scene by being more dynamic and by sometimes campusing the cruxes. The old school guys were not so impressed and some said that once he learned to be precise and using the feet like the older guys he would have faster progress.

Some eight years later, Adam Ondra entered the top-level scene climbing much faster then everyone was used to. Still, the pace of Ondra is unique but many more, especially the successful Japanese competition climbers, are closing in.

In the last few years we have been used to watching amazing videos by Oriane Bertone (15) who is already one of the best female boulderers in the world. Part of her success might just be her amazing flexibility and her unique spider heal hooking style. Furthermore, often she places one foot like 50 cm above her hands. This spider style seems to be the new trend and the one being most extreme is Oriane. 8A+ video by the spider women.
6 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Favorites
Katie Lamb makes history

Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…

"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…