Climbing news http://www.8a.nu#27488 Totally unexpected.Maybe completely my style...great day!]]> http://www.8a.nu#27485 So happy! My desired and hardest project so far. Solid grade considering there are two 8c+ sections in a row, feels closer to 9a+… Very thanks to all the nice people I’ve met in the cave for a great atmosphere and support. Hasta proxima amigos!]]> http://www.8a.nu#27473 Perfect alpine temps... Snow mixed with blue skies and rolling clouds made it a majestic day. Overhung and technical compression climbing. Everything must click perfectly. Was fun to work it with Paul and have a double send day. Nice one Dave! The sit is next!]]> http://www.8a.nu#27469 ]]> http://www.8a.nu#27476 FFA. hardest thing i've ever done. nothing better than a route that pumps the shit out of you before you get to the hard moves! ***]]> http://www.8a.nu#27474 http://www.8a.nu#27455 Alfons Dornauer is in great shape having, the last week, done two 8B boulders in Zillertal and yesterday he did Reality Check 8c+ in Schleier Wasserfall. In the combined ranking game, the 19 year old is #8. Today he added The Source 8c+ in Zillertal to his impressive Tick list. "3rd go this year, had to brush the route at first, soo dirty!!! Conditions were perfect! One of the most stunning lines in the valley! MASTERPIECE!!!]]> http://www.8a.nu#27444 If I feel in good shape I hope to also make some FAs but the plan is to go back home and train hard and return to Flatanger later this summer. Norway is amazing during the summer and in the cave you can also climb when it rains. I have not been climbing for a week and I am super pshyched to rapel down and start projecting new amazing lines.]]> http://www.8a.nu#27445 Daniel Woods has made yet another high quality hard core test piece by The Purge 8B+ in Elkland. The 23-year-old is #1 in the ranking game which he has been for more or less for the last five years. "Dave and I found this prow a while back and Dave gave it a try before departing to Europe. He told me it was really good, so I decided to pay it a visit and became obsessed over the movement. The full package line! Crux iron cross from left hand micro crimp to right hand slopery arête leads you into a desperate hand flip into a left hand underclin, followed by compression climbing, The topout is not easy either. I resorted to a night session to get better temps. One of my favorite lines.]]> http://www.8a.nu#27442 How do you climb/train?", we can see that the result is almost identical to a poll in 2009. This is interesting as we during the last few years have seen an increasing number of articles and discussion on 8a on how to train systematically. 09 % I follow a strict programme 41 % A bit of both 50 % No plan - Just climbing]]> http://www.8a.nu#27422 Frankenjura.com reports that Alexander has done Pantera 9a on his third go. An interview with his trainer, Patrick Matros, is coming up. Regarding Markus Bock, who has put up 13 out of the 15 9a's in Frankenjura, Pantera is the #12 hardest. Alexander has previously done the two hardest during this spring. © Klettern.de]]> http://www.8a.nu#27424 this Friday and Saturday in Innsbruck. Here is the current standing. In total it is eight events out of which seven counts. Kilian Fischhuber who has been Top-2 since 2004 is down at #15 and needs probably to finish of with only podiums in order to keep his record straight. 1. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov 281 - Anna Stöhr 400 2. Jakob Schubert 243 - Akiyo Noguchi 255 3. Gui-Gui Mondet 235 - Shauna Coxsey 251 4. Sean McColl 180 - Alex Puccio 228 5. Rustam Gelmanov 176 - Momoka Oda 185 Female overall results and Male overall results]]> http://www.8a.nu#27419 ]]> http://www.8a.nu#27411 Climb Kalymnos reports that you now can find ‘Bolt tightening’ kits at six popular Kalymnos crags. "So next time you see a spinner at one of these crags, look for the re-purposed shoe box; each is clearly labeled, as in the photo, with a ‘box for tightening loose bolts’ sticker and ‘how-to’ instructions. Many thanks go out to Eric Maanders for coming up with the idea, and to his clients for distributing the boxes within the next few days. Wrenches, nuts and hangers are provided by Climb Kalymnos."]]> http://www.8a.nu#27407