The Nest 8C by Jon Glassberg
"I’ve been climbing for 26 years and when I started in 1994, the grade hadn’t been proposed yet. In 2000 Fred Nicole did Dreamtime calling it 8C and the Story of Two Worlds in 2005 by Dave Graham became the first confirmed 8C. I imagined that grade to be reserved for the best of the best who could dedicate 100% of their time and effort to achieve the goal, definitely not for me to ever realize.
In 2017 I decided I was going to give 8C/V15 a shot and train, diet, and prepare as best I could for the one 8C that might just be “my style” and suit me well enough to go down. I thought it was “The Big Island” in Fontainebleau and I started to siege over the course of 4 trips resulting in a couple of herniated discs in my lower back and a 2-year recovery that is still ongoing. I gave up for a while, thinking my 190lb 6’3” (86 kg and 191 cm) frame wasn’t built for 8C/V15.
After a research trip to Red Rock this past December I made quick work of The Nest Stand, a V13 in its own right and thought that adding a V11 into the stand seemed like something I could train for and maybe actually do one day. I invested 3 months of power endurance training and campusing and headed to Red Rock to begin the process no matter how long it took. After 9 sessions of incremental progress, it was DONE and I was on top, in shock. I came prepared and executed without an epic and it felt good.
I knew this boulder fit me well and I am pretty good at power endurance. The climb for me breaks down into V11 into V13 so the grade certainly feels like a massive step up for me in overall difficulty but I have never been this prepared. During COVID I had extra time to train and focus on climbing so I put that new found strength to the test on my dream project and it all came together."
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
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Most ascents by top-ranked
1 435 Rafael Passos, 1 124 Adam Ondra, 843 Jamie Emerson, 817 David Graham, 785 Daniel Woods, 692 James Webb, 675 Ramon Julian, 649 Mathieu Bouyoud, 645 Jon Cardwell, 638 Nick Duttle, 623 Jon Glassberg, 596 Chris Zehani, 560 Brion Voges, 556 Jerney Kruder, 502 Joey Kinder Did we forget any?
8c slab by Paige Claasen
Jon Glassberg who has been around making films with many of the top guys during the many years reports on Facebook, "Paige Claassen just sent one of the worlds hardest slabs! "Art Attack (8c) at Sasso Remeno, Italy! 2nd ascent since the FA in 2004! I could not even believe my eyes. Nearly the last…
Glassberg sets the bar at 8C
Jon Glassberg has a personal best of 8B but he is aiming for The Big Island 8C in Fontainebleau. Read his blog on La Sportiva describing his process and plan wh…
Most ascents by top-ranked
1 435 Rafael Passos, 1 124 Adam Ondra, 843 Jamie Emerson, 817 David Graham, 785 Daniel Woods, 692 James Webb, 675 Ramon Julian, 649 Mathieu Bouyoud, 645 Jon Cardwell, 638 Nick Duttle, 623 Jon Glassberg, 596 Chris Zehani, 560 Brion Voges, 556 Jerney Kruder, 502 Joey Kinder Did we forget any?
8c slab by Paige Claasen
Jon Glassberg who has been around making films with many of the top guys during the many years reports on Facebook, "Paige Claassen just sent one of the worlds hardest slabs! "Art Attack (8c) at Sasso Remeno, Italy! 2nd ascent since the FA in 2004! I could not even believe my eyes. Nearly the last…
Glassberg sets the bar at 8C
Jon Glassberg has a personal best of 8B but he is aiming for The Big Island 8C in Fontainebleau. Read his blog on La Sportiva describing his process and plan wh…
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Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…
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Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…