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XXXL 8a and 8A climbers
  2009-10-03 00:00:00    
We all know that it does not take more than like 30 kg to climb an 8a any maybe 50 kg to boulder one 8A. But is there and 100+ kg who has done 8a or 8A. Mark Smith with 93 kg could be a contender for the best grade/kg ratio in the world since he has done 8b+. Another contendor is John Dunne who climbed 8c+ and 9a in the 90-ties as he was like 85 kg and 183 cm. When it comes to bouldering, Toni Lamprecht who suggested 8C+ is like 88 kg. Any other high performance heavyweighters?
OffLine dynomyth
  2009-10-03 13:08:10    
it's just me or first sentence makes no sense? "We all know that it does not take more than like 30 kg to climb an 8a any maybe 50 kg to boulder one 8A." - wtf THAT supposed to mean?
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2009-10-03 13:15:59    
I am sorry but I guess that Adam was like 30 kg when he did his first 8a at 9 years of age.

I also guess that Barbara Zangerl was like 50 kg when she did her first 8A at 16 years of age.

This sentence does not mean anything but to set XXXL climbers into an interesting comparison.
OffLine Matthew Redyns Deactivated
  2009-10-03 15:06:45    
at first, i thought we were talking about some strategic partnership with 8a and XXL Magazine(www.xxlmag.com). 

otherwise, klem leskot's pretty solid and he crushed(s).
OffLine spiderazubi
  2009-10-03 21:26:31    
A low body fat percentage is key to high performance climbing. All competition climbers I know are keen in keeping their body fat as low as possible. My current weight is 130 kg and I don't think I will ever be able to climb an 8a - but considering my grade/kg ratio I am surely not bad - I climbed a few 6a that had small holds.
Me and my friends had a lot of fun as a friend of mine tried climbing with 130kg. He attached 4x15kg to his climbing harness to match my weight. Usually he climbs 6c easily. But weighing that much he wasn't even able to climb the first 3 metres of a 5a route; he had a lot of trouble keeping attached to the holds.
Well, maybe in 20 years I will also be able to climb an 8a   ;-)
OffLine Adriaan Labout
  2009-10-03 21:35:09    

Why you have this add on the right 8a ?


 
OffLine Lars Askgaard
  2009-10-03 21:38:29    
using "like" so often makes you sound like the cast in The Hills on MTV
OffLine fridolin sent
  2009-10-03 22:06:05    
interesting topic.

maybe someday we will see weightclasses in comps. like in boxing or wrestling.

it certainly is a big difference to climb any given grade with 60 or 90 kgs. not that important on rock, though...
OffLine Svet
  2009-10-03 22:50:25    

using "like" so often makes you sound like the cast in The Hills on MTV ...


"like", and "you know"  is Sharma in Goteborg))) probably ))

yes weight issue in climbing is totally crucial overall. but actually one can choose power or big reach route, where pure weight ratio is not 100% important. then im sure you can find a 170 cm tall, and 100kg dude, doing  8a, and speculate. but! important is average statistic rartio. which prove that medium tall, and low-weight climbers do much, much better! also, anorexia speculation comes from this fact, and its logical. bring average statistic from 8a.nu, and we'll see flawless tendency 

PS      xxx-climbers are best -)
OffLine Dustin Harris
  2009-10-14 03:54:50    


Here's Mark Smith's thoughts on the whole subject:

http://betaclothing.ca/blog/?p=431